A Trip to La Molineda: Making Dulce de Panela or Atado
Today I went to an artisanal “molienda” where they extract the juice from sugar cane to make a form of unrefined sugar. You’ve probably seen these cones of sweetness at the grocery store in the Latin American foods section. This is the first time I’ve seen the process start to finish. It was pretty cool, and oh so sweet! La molienda is where cut field cane is brought to be extracted, heated, beaten, and cooled into molds ready to be wrapped and shipped all over the world. The sugar cane is cut and brought in ox pulled carts to the molienda or press. Modern machines are run by a diesel or gasoline motor. Once the cane has been pressed they light fires with the dried, bundled cane stalk. The juice is run from the press into the giant heating pots. The syrup is then heated through several “foam” stages. The “tester” is in charge of monitoring the foam and the syrup to determine when it’s time to change the heat of the fire or remove it completely from the fire. Once it is removed from the heat, the syrup is beat with a large wooden paddle until it reaches the turning point at which point it is poured in molds, or holes punched in a large wooden log. After about 15 minutes, the syrup has cooled and the molds are turned upside down and beat until the “panela” or sugar falls out. Finally, nets lined with dried cane stalk are filled with the panelas. The panelas are transported in these bags and are later wraped in corn husks or plantain stalks for sale in your local market. It’s pretty sweet to see the process and try sugar cane at its different stages along the way.




